It's nighttime in the middle of the Everglades and the sky is studded with shimmering stars so vast it seems to stretch forever.

There is no TV to break the silence.

There are no radios, no PlayStations and no computer games.

At Billie Swamp Safari, 19 miles north of exit 49 off Interstate 75, there is only the quiet night sounds of the swamp and the gentle nighttime snorts and scampering of the penned animals.

Here and there flashlights flicker as overnight guests make their way to the bathrooms along the woodchip-lined pathways.

And around the campfire representing the four winds, seven boys from Miami Shores have found their entertainment for the evening.

They've already gathered around the fire for a bout of Seminole storytelling with Gus "One Bear" Batista, and they traveled though part of the 2,200 acre preserve on the nighttime swamp buggy ride.

Around the fire they find just the thing to wile away the dark, chilly hours before bed: marshmallow roasting on scavenged sticks and Star Wars sword fights.

The three chaperones along for the birthday party are more than happy for a break.

The day was long, but a good one, said Bill Hunter, 55, of Miami Shores, whose last trip to the preserve was 10 years ago.

"It has all the good Old Florida qualities where you can get out and enjoy nature and yet it's still comfortable and you can enjoy the scenery," said Hunter, whose son was along to celebrate Jonathan Carr's 12th birthday. "It's a very nice experience for all these boys to get out. They're getting away from TV's and they're seeing stars at night and they're hearing good Seminole Indian folklore. They're having a good time together, they're experiencing the outdoors and experiencing a fire on a fairly cool night for South Florida."

Cool it was, with temperatures dipping into the 40s. For those spending the night in the chickee huts, it barely mattered as they were up early Saturday ready to move on with their day. There is the nature trail and the morning wildlife to spot. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are also available at the Swamp Water Cafe.

There are also a variety of shows and attractions from alligator and snake shows, a herpetarium and places to sit and enjoy the wildlife, just as the Seminole Tribe wishes.

"Billie Swamp Safari wasn't supposed to be what it is today. It was a hunting preserve," said Jonathan Vazquez, 31, the activities director at the preserve. "James Billie, the former chief of the Seminole Tribe, decided to change it from hunting to a safari where people could see the wildlife. There were times where there would be four people coming in a week and it would be, 'Wow, four people' and that was a good week."

Now there is a steady flow of visitors, both day and overnight in the group and single chickees. The chickees include nothing but an oil lamp and beds with mosquito netting for the summer months. Time at Billie Swamp Safari is spent outside in the open air among the stars and the wildlife.

Although the airboat tours, which run daily, are the most popular activities, Vazquez believes that to truly experience the Everglades and the preserves, one must spend the night.

"Everybody should spend the night and experience it once and see how amazing it is," said Vazquez, who is not Seminole. "It's the fact I can step outside and see every single star and no matter where you are in the city you can't do that. It's nature at the very best."

Nature, specifically alligators, is what Tami Arcari, 22, and her mother, Elaine, 56, of Ventura County, Calif., set out to see Friday.

They set out from Fort Lauderdale in their rental car and stumbled across Billie Swamp Safari.

They hit the alligator jackpot.

Tami spotted her first alligator on the long, winding road into the preserve and couldn't get enough of them in the wild or in the pens.

It was an adventure they were glad they found themselves on, if only for the day. It was their first time in the Everglades.

"I mainly came to see alligators," Tami Arcari said. "I've never seen one in my life and now I have. That's what I wanted to see, so when I saw it I was like, 'Yeah.'"

The two, who were setting sail on a Caribbean cruise Sunday, snapped two rolls of shots Friday on an airboat tour and just walking around the preserve.

They learned about the Everglades, an eco-system vastly different from what they're used to in California, Elaine Arcari said. But even she was surprised by all the water and wildlife.

"We knew it was swampy," she said. "It's just a lot of water on the (side of the) streets, you have a lot more water than California. When you ride down the street you can see alligators."

Alligator lovers who don't spot enough of the creatures on the long drive into the preserve have plenty of opportunity to spot them during their stay at Billie Swamp Safari.

Alligators may be spotted in a variety of pens and cages. There are also those that live in the wild, the ones that are only spotted by the intrepid visitor, the ones who watch the grasses for movement.

Suddenly the eyes and snout will part the murky, green waters and the gator will be visible, often engaging one in a staring match.

For those who like their animal adventures at a distance, there are airboat rides through the swampy waters. For those who prefer to stay on solid ground, swamp buggy rides are offered for snapshot-close views of the preserves' American bison, Southern razorback hogs and Asian water buffalo. The preserve sets out more than 2,000 pounds of feed each day to make sure the animals are well-fed.

It's Jesse "J.J." Gutierrez's job to make sure everyone on that swamp buggy sees wildlife.

The night rides, like the one the birthday crew set out on, are his favorite.

As he drives, he scans the terrain, a spotlight held by his head shining into the distance. He swings it slowly left. Then right. Then left again until he spots something.

He'll point out the reflection of the trees and the fog on the water. He'll point out the yellow eyes peering out from the woods.

And he shines the spotlight on the nesting tree of the vultures. It's where dozens of the creatures rest up after a day of feasting off the less fortunate.

"It's like something out of a horror movie," J.J. admits.

He gives day and night tours. Although night is his favorite, he recommends doing both.

"You'll never get the full experience unless you try both," he said. "You see everything at the day, but at night it is more mysterious. You never know what's coming up around the bend."

While the wildlife is the main attraction at Billie Swamp Safari, it is the little things that keep the overnight guests returning for more. The chickees are sparse, barren and without electricity.

It's the small things, the breeze blowing, the morning sounds, the peace and quiet and the blanket of stars overhead, and the campfire smell wafting through the preserve.

Ghislaine Carr, 47, of Miami Shores, was more than happy to host her son's birthday party at Billie Swamp Safari. It beats Chuck E. Cheese or the movies, she said, passing out marshmallows Friday night.

"I think kids growing up in the city can easily forget that not every place is like that. Out here you can see the stars and hear the Everglades," she said, her voice almost drowned out by the laughter of boys. "You get up in the morning and it's so quiet and you can see the sunrise."

IF YOU GO:

To reach Billie Swamp Safari: Take Interstate 75 (Alligator Alley) east to exit 49, then head north 19 miles to the park entrance.

Hours: Activities begin at 9:30 a.m. and it is possible to complete a full day of activities by arriving as late as 2 p.m.

Admission: There is no admission fee to enter Billie Swamp Safari and anyone is welcome to walk around and look at the wildlife and the village. Individual tours or packages are available in a variety of combinations.

Night chickee rental for a lodge (sleeps two): $ 35

Night chickee rental for a dorm (sleeps 8 or 12) $65

Reservations are required for all night activities.

For more information: call (800) 949-6101 or www.seminoletribe.com/safari.

Contact Features Editor Kristen Smith at 213-6043 or kmsmith@naplesnews.com